Goodbye Alaska Highway and Good Luck
August 7th, 2008(There will eventually be pictures with this post, but uploading them is taking too long. Sorry.)
We’ve finished the Alaska Highway. It was a long and lonely piece of pavement (and sometimes mostly gravel), but we’re through with it. This last week was an interesting transition, as we passed through Fort Nelson and turned south to Dawson Creek. The area northeast of Ft. Nelson is experiencing a bit of a natural gas boom. From Delta Junction all the way to Ft. Nelson the traffic on the road is mostly RVs and guys on motorcycles. There’s a year-round population in Whitehorse, but aside from that, most of the lodges close up in the winter time (and some won’t be opening up again come next summer). The entire economy of the Alaska Highway is based on tourists driving. As the price of gas rises, this will be happening less and less. 50% of the places we passed were closed down and most of them have been closed for a while. We wish the owners the best, but it’s going to be a tough couple of years and then the tourism is going to end for the most part.
Once we hit Fort Nelson, the change was drastic. The guys working in the oil patch keep the businesses running year-round. They’re all driving new trucks and having a grand old time. The money is pouring out of the ground. It’s a very different feel than the tourists that generate all the revenue along the highway.
Anyway… we left Watson Lake a while back, our bags full of groceries and our hearts heavy with the realization that we were nowhere. We’d been biking for weeks and we were still in the middle of nowhere. And then we started making miles. 70 miles per day seems to be the number we’ve settled on.
In one campground we met Rick and Joy from Grand Prairie, Alberta. They told us about the monster hills that were waiting for us as we headed south and invited us to stop at their house if we were in the neighborhood. This solidified a change in route Noah had proposed earlier that day. We’ve been playing a fun game in which I try to get us to cross the Continental Divide more than necessary and Noah tries to reduce the number of crossings. Our course now heads east across the plains. We’ll then head south, never to return to British Columbia. Ah well.
Joy and Rick were right and there are some decent climbs along the highway, but we’ve done them and we won’t have to do them again. (Other climbs await us further south, but for now we’ll ignore those.)
Outside of Watson Lake, we met up with another cyclist heading south, Steve Laskley from outside of Boston. He’s riding down to Florida and raising money for the Lance Armstrong Foundation; check out his site at effortinspireseffort.com. We rode along with him for a bit and ended up leap-frogging him a couple of times over the next few days. We stopped at a few memorable sites (Laird hotsprings, Muncho Lake Park) and fulfilled some of the major goals of this trip (sleeping in a gravel pit, sleeping at a derelict RV park).
We initially planned on taking a day off in Ft. Nelson and we arrived there a day earlier than anticipated due to a number of factors: a lack of water, an unwillingness to stop, a strong desire to see the new Mummy movie. And so we rolled into town around 7:00. For the first time in ten days we were rising with traffic and dealing with stoplights and sidewalks and it felt like a huge city. That’s the result of spending too much time with one other person on a lonely highway: 5000 people becomes a metropolis.
We were all set to camp at an RV park when a woman directed us to a hostel for people passing through town. When we arrived at the Fort Nelson Transient Shelter, it was all she had promised (a free bed, hot showers, laundry, coffee) and more (they gave us each a coupon for $13.25 for be used at the Subway in town). Canada is amazing. We ate to our hearts content and the government footed the bill. At the shelter we met up with two Japanese bikers who were taking two years to go from the northern tip of Alaska to the southern tip of Argentina. That night was spent doing laundry and catching up on the baseball news as the trade deadline approached.
The next day, as we were packing up, the guy running the shelter gave us another $13.25 for Subway. This country is great! Sometime between breakfast and heading to the grocery store, we decided that we’d be heading out of town that afternoon. We’d gotten everything taken care of, the movie theater wasn’t showing The Mummy, and spending a second night in the homeless shelter didn’t seem right. While we were shopping for food, we met a family of four who were also biking the entirety of the Pan-American highway. After three weeks of not passing any other cyclists, not having anyone else to compare ourselves with, we’d suddenly met up with seven other people doing what we’re doing. Our conclusions: we bike farther each day than most people and we carry slightly more on our bikes.
That afternoon, the afternoon we were supposed to be resting, we ended up biking 56 miles down the road to another derelict RV park. The next day was 73 miles that ended with another monster climb. That was followed by 78 miles that put us one day outside of Dawson Creek. The next day we rolled into Dawson Creek and celebrated with a couple of cold beers and some cheeseburgers. A job well done.
Grand Prairie, and the promise of a real day off, was a mere 82 miles to the east and everyone we talked with said the road was flat and the wind always came from the west. We wouldn’t have to peddle; just use a jacket as a sail and the wind will push you there. They lied. For the first day in three weeks there was an easterly breeze. We just can’t win. It was a beautiful, sunny day and we should have been thrilled, but by the end of the ride we were exhausted and happy to stop at Rick and Joy’s. They welcomed us in, fed us a bounty of food, and put us up in their camper. It was wonderful.
Today we explored Grand Prairie, successfully restocked our reading material, bought more food, did some laundry, and tuned up our bikes. The only shortcoming was our failure to find a cheap barbershop and our refusal to pay more than $8 for a haircut.
Tomorrow we head south toward Grand Cache and then into Jasper National Park. Our time in the plains has come to an end, but that’s okay. We’ve had enough of the rolling hills and the head winds.











































